Hi Grace, this is my current skincare routine. I am getting breakouts (a combination of cystic acne/small acne bumps) on my forehead, chin, and neck areas. Could you please help me if there’s anything that I should change in my routine or products that I should/not be using?
Morning
[ANUA] Heartleaf Quercetinol Pore Deep Cleansing Foam
Rise and Dry Face
[ANUA] Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner
[COSRX] Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence
[ANUA] Peach 70% Niacinamide Serum
[Round Lab] 1025 Dokdo Cream
SPF
Night
[ANUA] Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil
Rinse Face
[ANUA] Heartleaf Quercetinol Pore Deep Cleansing Foam
[Dr. G] Brightening Peeling gel (on non retinol days –2 times a week)
[ANUA] Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner
[COSRX] Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence
[SOME BY MI] Retinol Intense Reactivating Serum (3 times a week)
[ANUA] Peach Niacin Serum
Breakouts could be caused by several factors, such as:
Using too many products in your routine
Not double-cleansing properly
Using active ingredients when your skin is already breaking out
I personally recommend using a gentle cleanser in the morning, and make sure to emulsify your oil cleanser before rinsing.
Insufficient cleansing:
Not thoroughly cleansing SPF, especially on your neck, can leave residue that contributes to breakouts. Double-cleansing properly is key
Massage the oil onto a dry face for 10-20 seconds
Add a little water, massage again for 20 seconds to emulsify.
Rinse off thoroughly a few times.
Mix Foam Cleanser with water to make foamy, and massage your face again gently but focusing on breakout area.
Potential Causes of Breakouts
Overloading the skin with actives:
Using both niacinamide and retinol serums in one routine (at night) can overwhelm your skin. Also, when using retinol, you must finish with a moisturizer, as retinol can make your skin dry and sensitive.
Exfoliating too often:
Using Dr. G Brightening Peeling Gel twice a week on top of retinol can cause irritation, leading to breakouts. Reducing the frequency of both products may help.
Clogging ingredients:
If you’re prone to clogged pores, consider switching to non-comedogenic products. Your moisturizer or SPF may contain occlusive ingredients that can clog pores, especially in acne-prone areas like the forehead, chin, and neck.
Retinol adjustment period (purging):
Retinol can trigger purging, particularly in areas prone to acne. If you suspect retinol is causing your breakout, you might want to take a break from it and reintroduce it gradually.
Suggestions to Address the Breakouts
Morning Routine Adjustments:
Simplify your routine:
Temporarily skip the Peach Niacinamide Serum, Retinol, and Dr. G Peeling Gel. Focus on hydration and repairing your skin barrier.
Use a lightweight moisturizer:
Replace the Round Lab Dokdo Cream with a lighter, non-comedogenic option like Illiyoon Soothing Gel or Aestura Cream, which are great for strengthening the skin barrier.
Double-check your SPF:
Make sure your SPF is non-comedogenic and suitable for acne-prone skin. Opt for a lightweight type that doesn’t clog pores.
Night Routine Adjustments:
Alternate retinol and niacinamide:
On retinol nights, skip the Peach Niacinamide Serum to reduce irritation. Use the niacinamide serum on non-retinol nights to focus on brightening and calming your skin.
Reduce exfoliation:
Limit the Dr. G Brightening Peeling Gel to once a week to prevent over-exfoliation, as retinol already exfoliates the skin on a cellular level.
Use a barrier-supportive moisturizer:
Follow up retinol with a richer but non-comedogenic moisturizer like Aestura Cream to prevent dryness and irritation.
Cleanse your neck thoroughly:
Ensure the neck area is properly cleansed during both the oil cleansing (emulsify!) and foaming cleansing steps to remove any SPF or makeup residue.
General Tips:
Diet and lifestyle: Monitor any dietary triggers like high sugar or dairy.
Hygiene: Keep towels and pillowcases clean to avoid transferring bacteria to your skin.
Simplified Routine for Breakouts
Morning:
Wash with a low pH gentle cleanser.
(Optional) Use calming toner pads like Centella or Skin1004 Carrot Calming Pad to soothe and heal skin.
Apply a lightweight gel moisturizer like Illiyoon Gel or you can skip if your skin feel too heavy.
Finish with a non-comedogenic SPF.
Night:
Oil cleanser: If your current oil cleanser is causing breakouts, switch to a balm type.
Foam cleanser: Mix with water to create a foam and cleanse gently but thoroughly.
Moisturizer:
If Round Lab Dokdo Cream might be causing breakouts, switch to Aestura Cream for dry skin or Aestura Lotion/Illiyoon Soothing Gel for oilier skin.
By simplifying your routine and focusing on hydration and skin barrier repair, your breakouts should improve over time. I would focus on hydrating and repairing your skin before considering using products for your acne scars. (Usually recommend Brightening Serums or Reedle shot for this but not when you are having breakouts) If you have any questions, feel free to reach out!